
June 25, 2007
Today on my morning walk to the hospital and clinic area, I saw one of the most horrifying sights of my life. Two men who were riding in the back of a pickup truck, sitting on the ledge of its bed as is customary here, fell off of it after a big bump. The truck was probably going about 40 mph, so their tumbling and rolling on the ground after the fall was none too subtle. The two of them landed about 10 feet in front of me on the footpath I was walking. One of them looked seriously injured with possible broken bones but was conscious; the other started violently convulsing, his eyes rolled back and his arms and legs flapping a length of about one foot back and forth. A crowd quickly formed around them and then quite a few eyes drifted over to me- I looked down and realized that the stethoscope dangling around my neck probably made me look like a medical godsend for the whole situation. Little did any of the passers-by realize that I was but a rising second-year medical student with minimal clinical experience! So as I was approached to help, I had to take the particularly cold stance of waving my hands in refusal. Instead I called up the hospital on my cell phone to let them know what was about to walk in the doors, and then directed the driver of the now-backed-up pickup to the hospital’s emergency room, luckily less than a half mile away.
I didn’t get a chance to follow up and see what happened with the two men, both healthy-looking laborers in the primes of their lives, probably on their way to a morning worksite. Unfortunately, based on the serious accident victims I’d thus far seen in the pediatric ward, I fear the worst for the convulsing one. Head trauma is one thing Malawi does not have the capacity to adequately identify or treat, considering that the country has no MRIs and only one CT scanner (which is located in the other major city five hours away and has been broken for the past month to boot). I still hope and pray for his recovery, but as he was picked up and placed back in the truck for the ER visit, the realist in me accepted I probably just bore witness to the beginning of the end of a perfectly good human life.
As shocking as this incident was from up close, the overall trend that it fits into is even scarier. In Malawi and a good part of the developing world, road traffic accidents are fast becoming one of the leading causes of death and disability. An overly simplified version of a convincing explanation that I heard presented once at Harvard by the head of the World Bank’s Road Safety group (I believe Tony Bliss was his name), is that creation of roads has far outpaced the ability of developing nations to maintain them and adequately regulate their use. At the heart of the matter is that grants are most quickly given, debts are most expediently forgiven, and political will is most easily garnered in these countries in the name of expanding the road network. This action fulfills one of the classic, easily measurable benchmarks of “development,” while the well-being of people who will be using those roads is often overlooked from the funding standpoint. Anecdotal case-in-point: Malawian road traffic control (an oxymoron if I’ve ever seen one). Aside from the one police vehicle that I’ve ever noticed during my entire stay here, all of the police I’ve seen have been on foot and located at well-known checkpoints. In order to “pull you over” they have to (1) catch you doing something illegal within eyesight of their checkpoints; (2) literally flag you down, hoping that you will actually stop for them because they can’t do anything if you decide not to; (3) not be influenced by small bribes that the driving elite of Malawi can easily afford; and (4) hitch a ride in your car to the police station to issue you a ticket! One of my friends here was in the back of an overflowing, unregistered pickup which upon being flagged by the police just drove off-road into the bush for a few hours until he was relatively sure that no more cops would be looking for him anymore. As you can imagine, people drive whatever speed they wish here, pack unfathomable numbers in their small trucks (20 is not unusual), weave around the giant potholes left behind in last year’s development “project” of a road, pass each other even in the face of oncoming trucks, and have astonishingly little regard for the myriad bicycles, pedestrians, and animals that share the roads. And don’t for a second think that seatbelts or bike helmets factor into the whole picture. Something’s gotta give… and I got a little taste of what that something is this very morning.